Neapolitan Genovese sauce with spaghetti squash
My gentleman friend’s family is Italian. Quite. His maternal, Neapolitan grandmother used to make genovese sauce which, as some internet research informed me, is the traditional pasta sauce of Naples. Not tomato-based, not cream-based, not basil-based, genovese is… wait for it… onion-based. And oh-so-delicious.
How a Genovese dish became the customary dish of Naples appears to be a bit of a mystery, but there are internet murmurings about the private chefs of Genovese merchants… but really, who knows.
All of the recipes I found called for beef, but Vinnie doesn’t remember his grandmother ever cooking it that way; he remembers it as primarily onions. I did find an internet article that said meat was a more recent addition in the long history of the Neapolitan sauce, that onions, less expensive, were the primary ingredient with just a little beef, or scraps of salami or whatever was on hand thrown in as flavoring.
I imagine that, just as American mothers will make a casserole out of whatever leftovers are in the fridge, and Chinese mothers might throw whatever is on hand in the stir-fry, there are probably as many little variations of genovese sauce as there are Neapolitan mothers. At any rate, I consulted several recipes and combined what seemed to be their best elements for a truly delicious dinner.
Ingredients:

2 lbs. grass-fed top round, tied with twine at intervals to form a log
7 yellow onions, thinly sliced
1-2 oz, each: salami, pancetta, proscuitto
2 cloves of garlic
2 carrots
2 ribs celery
1 c. white wine
1 T. tomato paste (or just the juice from 1 can of tomatoes—I had no tomato paste on hand)—but the addition of any tomato paste/juice is entirely optional!
1/4 c. + 2 T. olive oil
salt & pepper
Preparation:
Heat 1/4 c. olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over low heat. Add the onions.

Mince the salami, pancetta, and proscuitto together with the garlic to form a paste. (I used my food processor for this.) Heat 2 T. olive oil in cast iron skillet over medium high heat and add pork paste to soften. Add beef log and brown on all sides.


Add the beef to the onion pot and cover with onions. Add a bit of the wine to the skillet to deglaze the pan and pour the contents, along with the browned pork bits, into the pot with the beef and onions.

Make sure the heat is on very low and your patience quotient is very high. Now it is time to simmer for 3-5 hours. Dice the celery and carrots.

After about an hour, add the carrots, celery, and a bit more wine. Flip the meat, stir things around, re-cover the beef with onions, go watch some TV, or better, get in a workout.

Come back, stir things around, add tomato paste/juice if using, salt and pepper, and some more wine. Let it cook some more. Slowly. Be careful not to burn your sauce!

About an hour before you’re ready to eat, prepare the spaghetti squash. (You can do this any number of ways. I prefer to halve and [olive] oil the squash and roast, cut side down, in a 350 degree oven for about 45 minutes before scooping out with a fork.)

About 20 minutes before you’re ready to eat, remove the beef and let it rest.

Remove the twine and cut the beef into bite-sized chunks before returning it to the sauce.


Final step: savor the delectable deliciousness. This was really wonderful, definitely repeatable and infinitely experiment-worthy. I’d love to try it with just/mostly onions—they are so sweet after cooking so long and slow!
And one wonderful thing about Paleo? Spaghetti squash tastes SO much better cold than pasta does! This is all so delicious cold, I haven’t even tried the leftovers warm yet!